Things to Do in Positano in December
December weather, activities, events & insider tips
December Weather in Positano
Temperature, rainfall and humidity at a glance
Is December Right for You?
Weigh the advantages and considerations before booking
- + Positano in December is about 80% cheaper than July. That quiet, pastel-painted house clinging to the cliffside? It might be a hotel you could afford for a few nights, with a terrace overlooking a Tyrrhenian Sea that's a deeper, moodier blue.
- + The soundtrack shifts from buzzing scooters and chatter to the clang of rigging against masts in Marina Grande and the soft hiss of a winter sea against the pebbles at Spiaggia Grande. You'll get a table at the legendary Chez Black, a 50-year institution right on the sand, without the two-hour July queue.
- + The scent of woodsmoke from the chimneys of the villas stacked above town replaces the usual sunscreen and salt air, mixing with the sharp, damp-earth smell of the terraced hillsides after a rain. It's a more private, interior version of Positano.
- + Festive lights are strung along Via Cristoforo Colombo, the switchback road that is the town's spine, casting a warm, golden glow on the slick, wet cobbles after dusk, while the December air carries a crisp, clean chill that makes the occasional afternoon sun feel earned.
- − The sea temperature dips to about 16°C (61°F), which is bracing even for locals. Swimming becomes a very brief, invigorating ritual for the brave rather than a day-long activity.
- − A good 40% of the smaller boutiques, family-run trattorias, and boat rental operators simply close their shutters from mid-November through February. The famous Path of the Gods hiking trail above town is often slick with mud and can be shrouded in mist that obscures the views it's famous for.
- − Getting around the Amalfi Coast by local bus, the SITA line, becomes less reliable as the seasonal ferries to Amalfi and Capri stop running, and you're left navigating the winding, cliffside roads which can feel treacherously narrow when slick with winter rain.
Best Activities in December
Top things to do during your visit
December is when Positano's kitchens come alive with the smells of slow-cooking ragù, roasting chestnuts, and citrus-infused liqueurs. The cooler weather is good for spending an afternoon in a warm kitchen learning to make fresh pasta, like the local 'scialatielli', or preserving lemons from the terraced groves. You're not just learning recipes; you're getting a taste of the winter rhythms that sustain this place when the sunseekers are gone.
The winter light on the Amalfi Coast is a photographer's secret. The low sun casts long, dramatic shadows across the terraced cliffs, and the occasional stormy skies provide a brooding backdrop the postcard-perfect summer misses entirely. With roads relatively clear, a private driver can take you to viewpoints like the one above Praiano or into the valley of Agerola when the light is best, without the summer convoy of tour buses.
The hilltop towns of Ravello and Amalfi, often sweltering and packed in summer, become serene in December. The gardens of Villa Rufolo are dormant but the architecture of its cloisters stands starkly beautiful, and the Byzantine-striped Duomo in Amalfi feels more sacred without the crowds. This is the ideal time for wine-tasting tours in the hills, where cellars are cool and the focus is on strong reds and warming limoncello, good for the season.
This might seem counterintuitive, but a private winter boat tour along the coast has its own magic. The sea can be glassy calm on clear days, and you'll have well-known views of Fiordo di Furore or the pastel stack of Positano all to yourself. The Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto) near Conca dei Marini is more dramatic in winter, as the lower sun angle can sometimes send a more intense, otherworldly green light filtering through the water.
December Events & Festivals
What's happening during your visit
From early December, nearly every church in Positano and the surrounding villages sets up an elaborate presepio. These are intricate, often mechanical dioramas built into grottos or entire rooms, featuring local landscapes and hundreds of hand-painted figurines. The one in the main church, Santa Maria Assunta, is a focal point. But wandering the quieter upper lanes to discover smaller, family-like displays in tiny chapels is the real joy.
On December 8th, Positano marks the official start of the Christmas season with a solemn yet beautiful procession. A statue of the Virgin Mary is carried from the Santa Maria Assunta church down to the marina, accompanied by the town band and the soft glow of lanterns against the dusk. It's a local event, less a spectacle for tourists and more a quiet, moving tradition that gives you a sense of the town's deep-rooted community spirit.
If your visit stretches into late December, New Year's Eve in Positano is an experience. The main piazza fills not with a raging party. But with families and visitors sharing a midnight toast. There's often a local band, the clinking of prosecco glasses, and at midnight, a modest but heartfelt fireworks display launched from a boat in the bay, their reflections dancing on the dark water. It's intimate, charming, and feels a world away from the crowded mega-events elsewhere.
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